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Setting up a tub isn't specifically brain surgery, however it does call for strong plumbing, woodworking, and sometimes, tiling skills. Changing an old bathtub with a new one is also a reasonably difficult job. If the old bathtub is readily obtainable, the task can relocate rapidly; if you have to open up a wall surface to get rid of the old tub and position the brand-new bath tub, the task is much harder. In either situation, the job is within a residence handyman's skills, although you will certainly need a helper to vacate the old tub as well as set in the brand-new one. Make certain you have certified yourself for the job and also fit attempting it. Rather than working with a service provider to take over a halfway-completed job, it is far better to think about using one prior to you start. Possibilities are you might require a specialist plumber to make tube links.
This post will certainly assist you install a brand-new bathtub in your restroom if you have actually currently purchased a new tub and also do not require to alter the arrangement of your previous water supply pipelines.
Your devices as well as product list must consist of the following:
Removing Old Touches
If you need to change old faucets with new ones as a part of your installation, then the first thing you need to do is separate the water. After doing so, activate the faucets to drain pipes any type of water remaining in the system. The procedure of getting rid of the existing faucets can be rather troublesome due to the limited accessibility that is usually the instance.
Utilize a basin wrench (crowsfoot spanner) or a tap tool to reverse the nut that links the supply pipelines to the faucets. Have a cloth all set for the staying water that will originate from the pipes. As soon as the supply pipelines have been gotten rid of, utilize the same tool to loosen up the nut that holds the taps onto the bath/basin. You will certainly need to quit the single faucets from turning throughout this process. When the taps have been gotten rid of, the holes in the bath/basin will have to be cleansed of any old securing substance.
Prior to moving on to fit the brand-new faucets, contrast the pipe connections on the old faucets to the brand-new faucets. If the old taps are longer than the new taps, then a shank adapter is required for the brand-new faucets to fit.
Fitting New Taps
If the tails of the brand-new faucets are plastic, after that you will need a plastic port to stop damages to the thread. One end of the connector fits on the plastic tail of the tap and the other end offers a link to the existing supply pipelines.
If you need to fit a monobloc, then you will require lowering couplers, which attaches the 10mm pipeline of the monobloc to the standard 15mm supply pipe.
Next off, place the tap in the mounting hole in the bath/basin ensuring that the washing machines remain in area in between the tap and the sink. Safeguard the faucet in place with the manufacturer given backnut. When the tap is firmly in place, the supply pipes can be connected to the tails of the faucets. The taps can either be attached by using corrugated copper piping or with normal tap connectors. The previous type needs to be connected to the tap finishes initially, tightening up only by hand. The supply pipelines can later be attached to the other end. Tighten up both ends with a spanner after both ends have actually been linked.
Mounting the Bath tub
Using the two wood boards under its feet, place the tub in the called for position. The wooden boards are practical in equally spreading the weight of the tub over the location of the boards instead of concentrating all the weight onto four tiny factors.
The following objective is to guarantee that the bathtub is leveled all round. This can be accomplished by inspecting the spirit level and adjusting the feet on the bathtub until the spirit level reviews degree.
To set up taps, fit the bottom of the outermost versatile tap connector to the ideal supply pipe by making a compression sign up with; after that do the exact same for the other faucet.
Switch on the water supply and also inspect all joints as well as new pipework for leaks as well as tighten them if necessary. Fill up the tub as well as also check the overflow outlet and the normal electrical outlet for leakages.
Ultimately, fix the bathroom paneling as explained in the producer's user's manual. Tiling and securing around the bath tub needs to wait up until the bathtub has actually been utilized at least when as this will certainly resolve it into its last position.
Preparing for the Installation
Firstly, the supporting structure provided with the bath needs to be fitted (if called for) according to the manufacturer's instructions. Next, fit the faucets or mixer to the tub. When fitting the faucet block, it is important to ensure that if the faucet features a plastic washer, it is fitted in between the bathroom and the faucets. On a plastic bath, it is additionally practical to fit a sustaining plate under the taps system to prevent strain on the bathtub.
Fit the flexible faucet adapters to the bottom of both faucets utilizing 2 nuts as well as olives (often supplied with the tub). Fit the plug-hole outlet by smearing mastic filler round the sink electrical outlet hole, and after that pass the electrical outlet through the hole in the bathroom. Utilize the nut supplied by the producer to fit the plug-hole. Analyze the plug-hole outlet for an inlet on the side for the overflow pipeline.
Next, fit completion of the adaptable overflow pipe to the overflow outlet. After that, screw the pipeline to the overflow face which must be fitted inside the bathroom. Ensure you utilize every one of the supplied washers.
Connect the trap to the bottom of the waste outlet on the tub by winding the string of the waste electrical outlet with silicone mastic or PTFE tape, and screw on the trap to the electrical outlet. Connect the bottom of the overflow tube in a similar manner.The bath ought to now be ready to be suited its last placement.
Tiling Around the Bathtub
In the area where the bathroom satisfies the floor tile, it is essential to seal the accompanies a silicone rubber caulking. This is very important as the installation can move enough to break a stiff seal, causing the water to penetrate the wall surface between the bathroom and the tiling, bring about difficulties with dampness and feasible leakages to the ceiling listed below.
You can choose from a range of coloured sealants to blend in your fixtures and also installations. They are marketed in tubes and also cartridges, and also can securing voids as much as a width of 3mm (1/8 inch). If you have a bigger void to fill, you can load it with spins of drenched paper or soft rope. Remember to always fill up the bath tub with water prior to sealing, to permit the activity experienced when the tub is in usage. The sealer can break relatively very early if you do not take into account this movement before securing.
Alternatively, ceramic coving or quadrant tiles can be made use of to border the bath or shower tray. Plastic strips of coving, which are easy to use and cut to size, are additionally conveniently available on the market. It is recommended to fit the ceramic tiles using water-resistant or waterproof glue and cement.
How to Install or Replace a Bathtub
Find Your Dimensions
The first step in any bathtub installation or replacement is to select the right size tub for your bathroom. Start by measuring your existing bathtub’s alcove from wall to wall. The standard size for bathtubs is around 5 feet long and 30 or 32 inches wide. Purchase the size that’s closest to your previous tub.
After you’ve measured, you’ll need to figure out what type of tub you need. Face the alcove. If the drain is on the right-hand side, you’ll need a right drain tub. If it’s on the left, get a left drain tub. Easy enough, right?
Disconnect the Water Supply and Drain Assembly
Before you can start on your removal, make sure that you turn off the tub’s water supply. Some bathrooms have a shutoff valve, but if you don’t see one, you’ll need to turn off the supply at your house’s water main. Once the water’s off, open the valves to release any remaining air in the supply lines.
Then, disconnect the tub drain flange. This process varies based on the type of drain you have, but in most cases, you’ll need a drain flange removal tool to perform this task. If you’re feeling handy, you might be able to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to twist and pull the flange.
Now comes the fun part. In order to disconnect the drain assembly, you’ll need to be able to get to the space underneath the tub. You might need to access the tub drain from a crawlspace or a basement. Don’t forget to take a pipe wrench with you, as you’ll need it to loosen the pipe at the connection.
Cut Out the Old Tub
After removing the drainpipe assembly, you can take out the old bathtub. Cut a strip above the tub edge in the wall surrounding the bathtub that's about 6 inches in height. The tools you need here may vary depending on the type of wall surround you have in the alcove. If you’re cutting drywall, use a drywall saw and remove the section of the wall all the way down to the studs. If you have tile, you’ll need to use a grinder with a diamond blade to cut through the grout line. Then, use a chisel to remove the individual tiles. Take care here not to cut through any studs.
Find the tub flange. Remove the screws that attach the flange to the studs in the wall. At this point, the tub should be freed from the wall.
Once you’ve removed the flange, use a utility knife to cut away the caulk between the tub and the floor. When this is done, you should be able to lift the tub up and out of the alcove. Keep in mind that, depending on what it’s made of, the old tub could be tremendously heavy. You should plan to have a friend help you move it just in case.
Install the New Tub
Before you make any adjustments to the area, place the new tub in the alcove to make sure it fits properly and that the tub drain lines up with the P-trap underneath the floor.
Remove it and install a 2 x 4 ledger board. Measure the tub’s flange, then mark that height on the wall. Screw the ledger board to studs in the wall. This will help to support the weight of the tub.
Once the ledger board has been installed, go ahead and secure the drain to the tub. For this step, you’ll need some plumber’s putty. Roll a small amount of putty in your hands and wrap it around the underside of the drain flange. Push the drain into the tub from underneath the tub.
When the drain has been attached, connect the overflow drain. To do this, you’ll place the gasket on the overflow elbow and move it behind the tub. Once that’s on, connect the overflow pipe and the drainpipe, but take care not to overtighten.
Secure the Tub
After the connections are in, it’s time to set the tub in place. Before you start, make sure the flange lines up with the markings you made in Step 4. Because the ledger board holds the tub in place, it’s important that it matches up. If not, you’ll need to remove it and readjust.
Once your measurements line up, attach the flange to the studs on all three sides of the wall. Please note that you should not screw the flange to the wall. Instead, you should use roofing nails because they won’t rust over time. When the tub is in place, install the baseboard and the molding in front of and around the tub.
Repair and finish off the drywall or tile that you cut in Step 3. If you’re installing a fiberglass bath surround, now’s the time to adhere it to the alcove.
Then, enjoy your tub! While all these steps might seem intimidating, removing and installing a new bathtub is a relatively easy DIY project that can be completed in a single day. And now, when you settle in for your next bubbly soak, you can enjoy your bath without the distraction of a tub in disrepair.
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